The GT450-450HP will make 450rwhp on your stock shortblock 4.6L 3v. Which is the motors safe limit. If you have a built shortblock the GT450-450HP can be turned up to 575rwhp at which point it runs out of fuel injectors, fuel pump and then in another 25rwhp or so the blower gets “not happy”. 

The GT450-450HP will make 10-11psi of boost out of the box which will get you to the power limit of your stock shortblock. If in the future you build your shortblock the GT500 M122 supercharger can be spun up to make 17-18lb of boost.

Some people will say that the 3v is only good or “XXpsi”. That is not the correct way of expressing the limits of the motor. Boost does not break parts, power does. Depending on a lot of factors (exhaust, inlet size, ported heads, etc) you can make 450hp with anywhere from 7-14psi. So, saying that the motor is safe to XXpsi is simply not an accurate enough way to gauge safety.

Installing a GT450 kit is no harder to do than any other positive displacement blower kit. And easier than some. There is a little more “hot rodding” when installing a GT450 kit but nothing that is mentally challenging. Just a little more time consuming. That’s splitting hairs though. The instructions (which can be found on this site) are very thorough and everything is explained in detail. Installing blower kits is not “hard”. They’re time consuming because there is a lot to do. But they are not “my brain hurts” hard. Most people are capable of doing a blower install for their first big project.

It will take your average home mechanic 16-18hrs to install. Basically, a weekend.  If you’ve done blower kits before or are a little more advanced it takes about 10-12hrs. If you’re a “Pro” expect it to take you 9-10hrs.

Out there in internet land the stock 07-12 blowers (2.0L Eaton M122’s) are commonly referred to as “Heatons” because highly modded GT500’s that are still running M122’s have high intake air temperature (IAT) problems. The high IAT problem in this situation is because of many factors. Yes, the M122 is not as efficient at compressing air as let’s say a Twin Screw blower (a Whipple for example). But the M122 is not a horrible blower by any means. When the GT500 crowd goes looking for more power out of their stock M122 they start by speeding it up…….a lot. On a stock GT500 the M122 spins at 15,625rpm which is right in its “sweet spot” and it doesn’t make a ton of heat. When the GT500 guys go for big power out of the M122 they first bump it up using a smaller upper pulley to 18,750rpm, which is not in its sweet spot anymore. And it really starts to make some heat. The next step is to add a 10% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 19,875rpm. Now they’re making a lot of heat. The next step after that is to run a 15% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 20,325rpm. Which makes a TON of heat. And all of those blower speeds are based on them not spinning the motor past 6,250rpm. If they raise the motors rev limit (most do) the blower spins even faster. There are guys out there spinning their stock M122 at 23,000rpm!!!! Some of these guys are spinning their M122’s 50% over their “sweet spot”. It’s no surprise that they don’t perform very well and produce a lot of heat. Complaining about a blower spinning nearly 50% faster than its sweet spot and making a ton of heat is like spinning your motor to 9,000rpm and complaining when parts come flying out of it 

A GT450 kit making 450rwhp spins the M122 at 13,000rpm. Yes, at 450rwhp we are spinning the M122 slower than what a stock GT500 does (2,625prm slower). That makes for a very “happy” blower with low IAT’s and very little parasitic loss.

The M122 is not a “junk” blower. There are no junk blowers out there (that we know of). The problem people run into is they try and use the wrong blower for their goals. Different blower designs, sizes, etc do different things better than others. But it mostly comes down to size (displacement). If you try and get more power out of a blower than it was designed for it will give you problems, it really is that simple. The M122 is VERY “happy” making 450rwhp. And it remains happy all the way up to about 575rwhp. Someone could spend more money and run a 2.3L TVS, 2.3L Whipple, 2.3L Edelbrock, 2.8L Kenne Bell, etc. and at 450rwhp won’t see any performance advantage over the M122. So, who wins? The guy who spent less money and went with the M122? Of the guy who went with the other ones? We say the guy making the same 450hp with no sacrifices for less money…..wins.

There is a horsepower level where the M122 won’t be big enough and getting into something else is the smart move. But 95% of people never go for that kind of power. And for those that do at some point, they can put a 2.3L or 2.65L TVS on the GT450 manifold. No need to get a completely different kit.

You sure can. Positive displacement blowers don’t care much about what motor they are bolted to. Would a “blower” cam work better than a “naturally aspirated” cam? Yeah, just a touch. Nothing you could ever feel in the seat of you pants though. As far as things like ported heads, headers, exhaust, etc. they simply make the blowers job easier. So if you already have a bunch of bolt ons and you want to put a GT450 kit on it’s no problem at all. The only change you would want to make compared to someone without bolt ons is you may want to run a bigger upper pulley (slows the blower down) when running a stock shortblock. A bolt on motor will make 450rwhp easier than a stock one so you will want to run the blower a little slower to stay under that 450rwhp threshold. We can advise you on what pulley to run and you can change your pulley size when ordering at no charge.

You can upgrade to an Eaton 2.3L or 2.65L TVS with the GT450. The big TVS’s can be run up to about 1200rwhp on e85. If you’re looking for more blower than that you’re going “big time” anyway and should be looking at our 3V R-Spec kit. It was designed from the ground up to run huge blowers on the 4.6L 3v motors.

As far as the other big GT500 blowers go (2.8, 3.2, 3.6, 4.7L Kenne Bell’s and 2.9, 3.4, 4.0, 4.5L Whipples) the short answer is no. The big blowers will physically bolt up to the intake manifold but there will be a few issues getting it to work reliably.

First off is the drive belt situation. The 4.6L 3v motors have a 6 rib belt. All entry level blowers use that same 6 rib belt system. It’s adequate for most 3v applications but when things get turned up to “kill” the system needs to be converted to 8 rib. And even this will get you only so far. Stock GT500’s come with their own dedicated 10 rib belt for the blower and A/C compressor (they run a 6 rib belt for the other stuff). You need that 10 rib belt when playing with the big GT500 blowers. There is no easy way to convert the 4.6L 3v to a 10 rib belt to drive those big blowers. You could maybe possibly get away with running an 8 rib system on a big GT500 blower if you weren’t spinning it very hard, but it would be problematic, there would still be some fabrication necessary to make it all work and why put a big expensive GT500 blower on and not run it hard? That’s a colossal waste of money.

Second problem is that the blower offset front to rear is a little different on the GT450 so rear elbow/inlet will poke through the faux firewall a little.

Long story short is that if you’re looking at going “big time” with a 3v (over 1000rwhp) you want to be looking at a kit designed specifically for those goals. Our 3v R-Spec kit. There is a lot more to running huge blowers than “will it fit”. They need all sorts of supporting systems to work properly.

The short answer is none. You can bolt a GT450 kit on your car and run it as is with no problems. Lots of people do this. Of course, “need” and “want” are two complexly different things. Supporting mods that you “want” are pretty much endless. The kits have a lot of these as options. And we can supply anything else your heart desires. Our sister business Department Of Parts carries nearly everything.

Any tuner that can tune a Mustang can tune a GT450 kit. Most tuners will find that the GT450 kits are easier to tune than some others because it uses stock Ford parts for all of the tuning related items (injectors, mass air sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc)

You can get your car tuned at your local dyno facility or you can have it remote tuned. The simple explanation of remote tuning is that you do driving tests for the tuner. You then email them your logs (the data your tuning device sees), they make changes, then email you back an updated tune. You repeat this process a few times until your car is tuned properly. Remote tuning works very well and 9 times out of 10 it is what we do ourselves. A great tuner for the 3v is Manuel Pazo from Tudyno. He is who we use for 3v tuning. He can be contacted at manual@tudyno.com. You can also find him on Facebook.

To be perfectly honest the number one reason is it’s a PITA and tuning is not what we do. If we wanted to offer tunes there would be a infrastructure put in place to support that and we simply aren’t big enough to add a “department” for tuning.

Additionally, we are not fans of supplied or “canned” tunes for blown cars. Even if we purchased a blower kit from another company we wouldn’t run the supplied tune. Supplied tunes are very, very safe. And that means they are down on power and run very soft. Supplied tunes need to be that way because every car is a little different. If they were to supply a dialed in tune it’s possible that someone will put it in a car with some other mods other than the blower and it will not be safe anymore. Canned tunes are pig rich and don’t have much timing. They run like crap.

You really, really want a custom tune for your car. The number one reason is so you can be 100% sure you are tuned safe. The number two reason is you want your car to make all the power it can make and run well. Tuning is incredibly easy in this day and age. There are dyno shops on every corner and if you don’t want to do that there are a couple of tuners that do remote tuning which is a great option.

The short answer is no. It’s not because they couldn’t be made to be 50 state legal. It’s just that we don’t deal in large enough volume to be able to afford to get the kits certified. But…….

This is all in theory of course, we would never condone doing something illegal…….We aren’t in a state with emission testing so all of this is what we have head or been told. We don’t have any first hand knowledge.

There are a lot of people running GT450 kits in states with emission testing. What state you live in would determine how easy it is to get your car to pass the emission test. If your state simply tests the emissions at the tailpipe they are pretty easy to pass. Most good tuners can write you a tune to get past the sniff test. If your state has a visual inspection, it will be tougher. The good news is that the GT450 uses stock Ford parts so when you pop the hood your average person is going to think it’s stock even though they are looking at a supercharger.

You best bet when dealing with emission compliance is to get in touch with your local hot rod community and see what they’re doing. People get past emission every day in every state with aftermarket parts. The trick is figuring out what you need to do.

Yes. The only difference between a manual and auto trans supercharger kit is the tune. Your tuner will be the one who “makes it for an auto”.

Some shops won’t want to install your GT450 kit. Not all, but some.

Your shop doesn’t want to install your GT450 kit because of one simple reason, money. We are not saying that they’re wrong for basing it on money. Making money is what they’re supposed to be doing after all.

When your shop puts a blower on your car they are usually selling you that blower, which they make money on. They make money because they are set up with one or a few blower manufacturers (or distributors) and they get their kits at a lower price than you do. We have already priced our kits as low as they can go and that is the price we give our customers. We didn’t pad the price so we can afford to sell the kits to shops for less than we do our customers.

Most shops bill by the hour ($100/hr for example). And they pay their employees by the billed hour. If the shop charges you 12hrs to put a blower on and it takes them 14hrs they “lost money”. And the employee isn’t going to be too happy because they just got paid for 12hrs but it took them 14. If a shop sticks with one or two different blower kits and only installs those they can get really fast at them and make more money. They will still charge for 12hrs, but if they can do the job in 8hrs because they have done so many of them they are very happy. There is nothing wrong with this at all, it’s smart. But if they’re only installing a certain kit and doing it faster than 12hrs every time they are going to be less thrilled about tackling a different kit and maybe seeing their work time balloon to 12hrs+. It’s not that your shop doesn’t want to install a GT450 kit. They just don’t want to install a different kit then they’re used to.

Your shop makes money when they sell you the blower and they can make more money per hour if they get fast at a certain kit(s). That is why some shops won’t want to put your GT450 kit on. There is nothing at all wrong with this. They should be doing everything they can to maximize profit and stay in business.

Yes you can. But it depends on what shape the motor is in. And that mostly boils down to cylinder sealing. If you’re at all concerned about running a blower on a high mileage do a compression test. And if you’re really worried do a leakdown test. If the numbers are good you can put a blower on.

We sold our first GT450 kit 1/7/12. There are over 500 GT450 kits out there (as of 12/19) in the world now. It has been completely tested and proven.

The safe limit of your 4.6L 3v motor is 450rwhp and 6,000rpm’s. You’re flirting with danger running any more than that.

Some people will say that the 3v is only good or “XXpsi”. That is not the correct way of expressing the limits of the motor. Boost does not break parts, power does. Depending on a lot of factors (exhaust, inlet size, ported heads, etc) you can make 450hp with anywhere from 7-14psi. So saying that the motor is safe to XXpsi is simply not an accurate enough way to gauge safety.

Installing a GT450 kit is no harder to do than any other positive displacement blower kit. And easier than some. There is a little more “hot rodding” when installing a GT450 kit but nothing that is mentally challenging. Just a little more time consuming. That’s splitting hairs though. The instructions (which can be found on this site) are very thorough and everything is explained in detail. Installing blower kits is not “hard”. They’re time consuming because there is a lot to do. But they are not “my brain hurts” hard. Most people are capable of doing a blower install for their first big project.

It will take your average home mechanic 16-18hrs to install. Basically a weekend. If you’ve done blower kits before or are a little more advanced it takes about 10-12hrs. If you’re a “Pro” expect it to take you 9-10hrs.

Out there in internet land the stock 07-12 blowers (2.0L Eaton M122’s) are commonly referred to as “Heatons” because highly modded GT500’s that are still running M122’s have high intake air temperature (IAT) problems. The high IAT problem in this situation is because of many factors. Yes, the M122 is not as efficient at compressing air as let’s say a Twin Screw blower (a Whipple for example). But the M122 is not a horrible blower by any means. When the GT500 crowd goes looking for more power out of their stock M122 they start by speeding it up…….a lot. On a stock GT500 the M122 spins at 15,625rpm which is right in its “sweet spot” and it doesn’t make a ton of heat. When the GT500 guys go for big power out of the M122 they first bump it up using a smaller upper pulley to 18,750rpm, which is not in its sweet spot anymore. And it really starts to make some heat. The next step is to add a 10% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 19,875rpm. Now they’re making a lot of heat. The next step after that is to run a 15% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 20,325rpm. Which makes a TON of heat. And all of those blower speeds are based on them not spinning the motor past 6,250rpm. If they raise the motors rev limit (most do) the blower spins even faster. There are guys out there spinning their stock M122 at 23,000rpm!!!! Some of these guys are spinning their M122’s 50% over their “sweet spot”. It’s no surprise that they don’t perform very well and produce a lot of heat. Complaining about a blower spinning nearly 50% faster than its sweet spot and making a ton of heat is like spinning your motor to 9,000rpm and complaining when parts come flying out of it.

A GT450 kit making 450rwhp spins the M122 at 13,000rpm. Yes, at 450rwhp we are spinning the M122 slower than what a stock GT500 does (2,625prm slower). That makes for a very “happy” blower with low IAT’s and very little parasitic loss.

The M122 is not a “junk” blower. There are no junk blowers out there (that we know of). The problem people run into is they try and use the wrong blower for their goals. Different blower designs, sizes, etc do different things better than others. But it mostly comes down to size (displacement). If you try and get more power out of a blower than it was designed for it will give you problems, it really is that simple. The M122 is VERY “happy” making 450rwhp. And it remains happy all the way up to about 575rwhp. Someone could spend more money and run a 2.3L TVS, 2.3L Whipple, 2.3L Edelbrock, 2.8L Kenne Bell, etc. and at 450rwhp won’t see any performance advantage over the M122. So who wins? The guy who spent less money and went with the M122? Of the guy who went with the other ones? We say the guy making the same 450hp with no sacrifices for less money…..wins.

There is a horsepower level where the M122 won’t be big enough and getting into something else is the smart move. But 95% of people never go for that kind of power. And for those that do at some point, they can put a 2.3L TVS on the GT450 manifold. No need to get a completely different kit.

This is a tricky question and quoting power numbers these days is very difficult because the industry and the public as a whole use “fuzzy math” when making claims. What does “How much power will it make?” really mean? Are we talking about a stone stock motor with stone stock exhaust? Are we talking about a built motor with ported heads, big cams, high compression pistons, monster exhaust and a huge throttle body and cold air intake? Or somewhere in between? Are we talking about 91 octane gas or 93? Are we talking about e85? As we’re sure you can tell there is going to be a huge difference in “what it makes” between stock and wild. And if you’re adding e85 to the mix it blows the whole estimate right out of the water.

That said here are some reasonable numbers that are based on the blowers running on stock 4.6L 3v motors (aside from forged rods/pistons so parts don’t fly out) running 93 octane gas, on the same dyno, on the same day. These numbers are based on the blowers spinning at 18,000rpm which is the effective safe limit. These numbers can move up or down depending on other variables.

Keep in mind none of these blowers will make this power out of the box. At an absolute minimum they would all need fuel injectors and fuel pump upgrades to see these numbers. Some will need more supporting mods than that. None of the kits are capable of running the maximum power the actual supercharger can make out of the box.

-The stock 2007-2012 GT500 2.0L M122 blower will make about 605-615rwhp.

-The stock 2013-2014 GT500 2.3L TVS blower will make about 665-675rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.3L will make about 625-645rwhp.

-The Roush 2.3L TVS will make about 625-645rwhp.

-The Edlebrock EForce 2.3L TVS will make about 580-590rwhp.

-The Kenne Bell 2.6L will make about 585-595rwhp.

-The Kenne Bell 2.8L will make about 675-685rwhp.

“But some dude on the internet is making 725hp out of his XYZ blower on his 3v. Those numbers aren’t right”!

The numbers listed above can go up or down based on conditions, fuel used, how safe they are tuned, how happy the dyno they were on is, other supporting modifications, etc. They are simply a representation of what you can expect out of the above blowers when they’re compared to each other under the same conditions.

You can upgrade to a Eaton 2.3L TVS with the GT450. Most of the time people get them as take offs from 13-14’ GT500’s. The TVS can be run up to about 750rwhp on e85. If you’re looking for more blower than that you’re going “big time” anyway and should be looking at our 3V R-Spec kit. It was designed from the ground up to run huge blowers on the 4.6L 3v motors.

As far as the other big GT500 blowers go (2.8, 3.2, 3.6, 4.7L Kenne Bell’s and 2.9, 3.4, 4.0, 4.5L Whipples) the short answer is no. The big blowers will physically bolt up to the intake manifold but there will be a few issues getting it to work reliably.

First off is the drive belt situation. The 4.6L 3v motors have a 6 rib belt. All entry level blowers use that same 6 rib belt system. It’s adequate for most 3v applications but when things get turned up to “kill” the system needs to be converted to 8 rib. And even this will get you only so far. Stock GT500’s come with their own dedicated 10 rib belt for the blower and A/C compressor (they run a 6 rib belt for the other stuff). You need that 10 rib belt when playing with the big GT500 blowers. There is no easy way to convert the 4.6L 3v to a 10 rib belt to drive those big blowers. You could maybe possibly get away with running an 8 rib system on a big GT500 blower if you weren’t spinning it very hard, but it would be problematic, there would still be some fabrication necessary to make it all work and why put a big expensive GT500 blower on and not run it hard? That’s a colossal waste of money.

Second problem is that the blower offset front to rear is a little different on the GT450 so the huge blowers will have issues clearing the firewall.

Third issue is that a solution would have to be found for mounting the alternator. The GT450 location is not going to quite work with the huge blowers. Different brackets would need to be fabricated.

Long story short is that if you’re looking at going “big time” with a 3v (over 750rwhp) you want to be looking at a kit designed specifically for those goals. Our 3v R-Spec kit. There is a lot more to running huge blowers than “will it fit”. They need all sorts of supporting systems to work properly. Belt and intercooler systems to name the two most important .

ings.

The short answer is none. You can bolt a GT450 kit on your car and run it as is with no problems. Plenty of people have done this.

We all have the mod bug though, so we will mod. Here is a list of the top desired supporting mods in order (according to us).

-Air/oil separator catch can. The 4.6L 3v already tends to suck oil through the PCV system into the intake manifold. It will do it more with a blower. It’s a good idea to run a air/oil separator on any blown application.

-Urethane engine mounts. We like Prothane.

-Clutch. If you’re going to drive hard and have big fat sticky tires you’re going to want to think about a clutch.

-Rear lower and upper control arms. You will have a lot more torque with a positive displacement blower, which means you will spin the tires more. S197’s already have a little wheel hop now and then. You will have more with the blower. Control arms help out a lot with this.

-Big fat rear tires.

Of course there are about a million and one things that would be nice to do. But these are the top of the list.

Any tuner that can tune a Mustang can tune a GT450 kit. Most tuners will find that the GT450 kits are easier to tune than some others because it uses stock Ford parts for all of the tuning related items (injectors, mass air sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc)

You can get your car tuned at your local dyno facility or you can have it remote tuned. The simple explanation of remote tuning is that you do driving tests for the tuner. You then email them your logs (the data your tuning device sees), they make changes, then email you back an updated tune. You repeat this process a few times until your car is tuned properly. Remote tuning works very well and 9 times out of 10 it is what we do ourselves. A great tuner for the 3v is Manuel Pazo from Tudyno. He is who we use for 3v tuning. He can be contacted at manual@tudyno.com. You can also find him on Facebook.

To be perfectly honest the number one reason is it’s a PITA and tuning is not what we do. If we wanted to offer tunes there would be a infrastructure put in place to support that and we simply aren’t big enough to add a “department” for tuning.

Additionally, we are not fans of supplied or “canned” tunes for blown cars. Even if we purchased a blower kit from another company we wouldn’t run the supplied tune. Supplied tunes are very, very safe. And that means they are down on power and run very soft. Supplied tunes need to be that way because every car is a little different. If they were to supply a dialed in tune it’s possible that someone will put it in a car with some other mods other than the blower and it will not be safe anymore. Canned tunes are pig rich and don’t have much timing. They run like crap.

You really, really want a custom tune for your car. The number one reason is so you can be 100% sure you are tuned safe. The number two reason is you want your car to make all the power it can make and run well. Tuning is incredibly easy in this day and age. There are dyno shops on every corner and if you don’t want to do that there are a couple of tuners that do remote tuning which is a great option.

The short answer is no. It’s not because they couldn’t be made to be 50 state legal. It’s just that we don’t deal in large enough volume to be able to afford to get the kits certified. But…….

This is all in theory of course, we would never condone doing something illegal…….We aren’t in a state with emission testing so all of this is what we have head or been told. We don’t have any first hand knowledge.

There are a lot of people running GT450 kits in states with emission testing. What state you live in would determine how easy it is to get your car to pass the emission test. If your state simply tests the emissions at the tailpipe they are pretty easy to pass. Most good tuners can write you a tune to get past the sniff test. If your state has a visual inspection, it will be tougher. The good news is that the GT450 uses stock Ford parts so when you pop the hood your average person is going to think it’s stock even though they are looking at a supercharger.

You best bet when dealing with emission compliance is to get in touch with your local hot rod community and see what they’re doing. People get past emission every day in every state with aftermarket parts. The trick is figuring out what you need to do.

Yes. The only difference between a manual and auto trans supercharger kit is the tune. Your tuner will be the one who “makes it for an auto”.

Some shops won’t want to install your GT450 kit. Not all, but some.

Your shop doesn’t want to install your GT450 kit because of one simple reason, money. We are not saying that they’re wrong for basing it on money. Making money is what they’re supposed to be doing after all.

When your shop puts a blower on your car they are usually selling you that blower, which they make money on. They make money because they are set up with one or a few blower manufacturers (or distributors) and they get their kits at a lower price than you do. We have already priced our kits as low as they can go and that is the price we give our customers. We didn’t pad the price so we can afford to sell the kits to shops for less than we do our customers.

Most shops bill by the hour ($100/hr for example). And they pay their employees by the billed hour. If the shop charges you 12hrs to put a blower on and it takes them 14hrs they “lost money”. And the employee isn’t going to be too happy because they just got paid for 12hrs but it took them 14. If a shop sticks with one or two different blower kits and only installs those they can get really fast at them and make more money. They will still charge for 12hrs, but if they can do the job in 8hrs because they have done so many of them they are very happy. There is nothing wrong with this at all, it’s smart. But if they’re only installing a certain kit and doing it faster than 12hrs every time they are going to be less thrilled about tackling a different kit and maybe seeing their work time balloon to 12hrs+. It’s not that your shop doesn’t want to install a GT450 kit. They just don’t want to install a different kit then they’re used to.

Your shop makes money when they sell you the blower and they can make more money per hour if they get fast at a certain kit(s). That is why some shops won’t want to put your GT450 kit on. There is nothing at all wrong with this. They should be doing everything they can to maximize profit and stay in business.

Yes you can. But it depends on what shape the motor is in. And that mostly boils down to cylinder sealing. If you’re at all concerned about running a blower on a high mileage do a compression test. And if you’re really worried do a leakdown test. If the numbers are good you can put a blower on.

We sold our first GT450 kit 1/7/12. There are over 250 GT450 kits out there in the world now. It has been completely tested and proven.

If you purchase your supercharger (the actual head unit) from us in a Phase II or III kit it will come with the GT450 quick change pulley and hub already on it. If you purchase your own supercharger you can do one of two things:

-Remove your supercharger snout and send it to us to be swapped. The supercharger snout is very easy to remove/install. The only “hard” part is you want to catch the 6oz of fluid that comes out so you can re-use it. We will swap the GT450 components on to your snout and ship it back with your manifold kit free of charge.

-You can swap the pulleys out yourself but it’s not the easiest thing in the world. You will first need a pulley removal tool. They are about $150-160. That will be used to remove the stock one. Then our hub needs to be heated up to 350deg F and then “dropped” on the shaft with a “stop” attached to the face of it so the alignment is correct. We can walk you through this if you want to go this direction. For most people sending it in is the best option.

The 2005-2010 Mustang GT 3v motor had a very clear limit. After 450+rwhp/6,000+rpm it would break rods. Pretty simple. The Coyote is not quite so easy.

The hard parts (rods, pistons, crank, etc) are actually quite robust in the Coyote. Conventional wisdom is that they are good for about 700rwhp. Some have pushed it further and not had problems. Some have pushed it further and scattered motors. But that’s not the first limit you run into.

The Coyote has a much higher compression ratio than the older 3v motor. And what that means is you’re limited by how much boost you can run on pump gas (91-93 octane). If you run too much boost you get detonation that breaks pistons/rods and sometimes blocks. What is the octane/horsepower limit of the Coyote you ask? The simple answer is 10-11psi. Which is 550ish rwhp on a stone stock motor. But that horsepower number can change quite a bit depending on what other supporting mods are in play. If you would like to know more about how that works read our Coyote Boosting Basics article.

Long story short your octane limit will be from 550-650rwhp depending on the other supporting mods you have.

It will take your average home mechanic 14-16hrs to install. Basically a weekend.  If you’ve done blower kits before or are a little more advanced it takes about 8-10hrs. If you’re a “Pro” expect it to take you 7-8hrs.

Out there in internet land the stock 07-12 blowers (2.0L Eaton M122’s) are commonly referred to as “Heat-ons” because highly modded GT500’s that are still running M122’s have high intake air temperature (IAT) problems. The high IAT problem in this situation is because of many factors. Yes, the M122 is not as efficient at compressing air as let’s say a Twin Screw blower (a Whipple for example). But the M122 is not a horrible blower by any means. When the GT500 crowd goes looking for more power out of their stock M122 they start by speeding it up…….a lot. On a stock GT500 the M122 spins at 15,625rpm which is right in its “sweet spot” and it doesn’t make a ton of heat. When the GT500 guys go for big power out of the M122 they first bump it up using a smaller upper pulley to 18,750rpm, which is not in its sweet spot anymore. And it really starts to make some heat. The next step is to add a 10% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 19,875rpm. Now they’re making a lot of heat. The next step after that is to run a 15% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 20,325rpm. Which makes a TON of heat. And all of those blower speeds are based on them not spinning the motor past 6,250rpm. If they raise the motors rev limit (most do) the blower spins even faster. There are guys out there spinning their stock M122 at 23,000rpm!!!! Some of these guys are spinning their M122’s 50% over their “sweet spot”. It’s no surprise that they don’t perform very well and produce a lot of heat. Complaining about a blower spinning nearly 50% faster than its sweet spot and making a ton of heat is like spinning your motor to 9,000rpm and complaining when parts come flying out of it.

A GT550-S197 kit making 550rwhp spins the M122 at 15,826rpm. That is right in the M122’s sweet spot and spinning at almost the exact same speed as stock GT500’s. That makes for a very “happy” blower with low IAT’s and very little parasitic loss.

The M122 is not a “junk” blower. There are no junk blowers out there (that we know of). The problem people run into is they try and use the wrong blower for their goals. Different blower designs, sizes, etc do different things better than others. But it mostly comes down to size (displacement). If you try and get more power out of a blower than it was designed for it will give you problems, it really is that simple. The M122 is VERY “happy” making 550rwhp on a Coyote. And it remains happy all the way up to about 610rwhp. You could spend more money and run a 2.3L TVS, 2.3L Whipple, 2.3L Edelbrock, 2.8L Kenne Bell, etc. and at 550rwhp (the effective octane limit of the Coyote, more on that here) won’t see any measurable performance advantage over the M122. So who wins? The guy who spent less money and went with the M122? Or the guy who went with the other ones? We say the guy making the same 550rwhp with no sacrifices for less money…..wins.

There is a horsepower level where the M122 won’t be big enough and getting into something else is the smart move. But 95% of people never go for that kind of power. And for those that do at some point can put anything from a 2.3L TVS to a 4.5L Whipple right on the GT550-S197 manifold. No need to get a completely different kit.

This is a tricky question and quoting power numbers these days is very difficult because the industry and the public as a whole use “fuzzy math” when making claims. What does “How much power will it make?” really mean? Are we talking about a stone stock motor with stone stock exhaust? Are we talking about a built motor with ported heads, big cams, high compression pistons, monster exhaust and a huge throttle body and cold air intake? Are we talking about a ported blower? Or somewhere in between? Are we talking about 91 octane gas or 93? Are we talking about e85? As we’re sure you can tell there is going to be a huge difference in “what it makes” between stock and wild. And if you’re adding e85 to the mix it blows the whole estimate right out of the water.

Because the Coyote is octane limited due to a high compression ratio (you can read more about that here) all the blowers available for the Coyote are going to make almost the exact same power. A stone stock Coyote motor with stock exhaust is going to be limited to right around 550rwhp no matter what blower you plop on top of it. You can do some supporting mods to increase that number (exhaust, better fuel, cams, etc) but a stock Coyote with an out of the box blower kit is going to be limited to about 550rwhp.

But……

If you run e85, headers, off road midpipe and a good cat back you can get quite a bit more power out of the available blowers. Keep in mind that an e85 fuel system and injectors to support the numbers below gets very expensive, very fast. Spending $2500-5000 on a fuel system is not at all hard to do. And the exhaust components will add up to $2000-2500 real quick. And a lot of the below numbers are over the limit where you start to break rods/pistons/blocks. So to achieve those levels you’re also looking at a forged motor too.

These numbers represent what these blowers can make with good fuel, good supporting mods and a forged motor on the same dyno on the same day. Keep in mind a lot of these numbers below will require more than a forged shortblock. A sleeved or filled (can’t drive a filled one on the street) block will be needed after about 850rwhp. The factory blocks start to crack at that point. So for most people with real world budgets these numbers are strictly fantasy.

-The stock 2007-2012 GT500 2.0L M122 blower on a GT550 kit will make about 630-640rwhp.

-The stock 2013-2014 GT500 2.3L TVS blower on a GT550 kit will make about 800-825rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.9L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 875-900rwhp.

-The Whipple 3.4L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1150-1200rwhp.

-The Whipple 4.0L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1275-1325rwhp.

-The Whipple 4.5L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1400-1500rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.3L will make about 750-775rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.9L front entry will make about 900-950rwhp.

-The Roush 2.3L TVS will make about 750-775rwhp.

-The Edlebrock EForce 2.3L TVS will make about 625-645rwhp.

-The Kenne Bell 2.8L will make about 850-875rwhp.

“But some dude on the internet is making bla, bla, bla horsepower out of his XYZ blower on his Coyote. Those numbers aren’t right”!

The numbers listed above can go up or down based on conditions, fuel used, how safe they are tuned, how happy the dyno they were on is, other supporting modifications, etc. They are simply a representation of what you can expect out of the above blowers when they’re compared to each other under the same conditions.

You sure can. Positive displacement blowers don’t care much about what motor they are bolted to. Would a “blower” cam work better than a “naturally aspirated” cam? Yeah, just a touch. Nothing you could ever feel in the seat of you pants though. As far as things like ported heads, headers, exhaust, etc. they simply make the blowers job easier. So if you already have a bunch of bolt ons and you want to put a GT550-S197 kit on it’s no problem at all. If you do have headers, off road midpipe, cams, etc you can actually make more power than a non bolt on car because you will be able to spin the blower faster and still remain under the octane limits of the fuel you use. You can read about that here in our Coyote Boosting Basics article.

You can upgrade to a GT500 bolt pattern Eaton 2.3L TVS with the GT550 easy as pie. It will take about an hour. And for 99% of people that blower will make more power than they will ever be shooting for. But…………..

If you’re looking to go full gonzo you can use any of the big GT500 superchargers. Some will be an absolute direct bolt on. Some will require a different base/adapter plate, which we can supply you. But when running the big blowers you have to address the belt system. The stock 6 rib system won’t cut it. Even the big 10 rib systems leave a little on the table but there is what is used most of the time because it’s very difficult to get belts wider than 10 rib in the correct lengths.

Some big blowers are easier to make a 10 rib system work with than others. Whipple blowers will be the easiest. We can help you with what you will need to go 10 rib if you decide to go BIG.

The short answer is none. You can bolt a GT550-S197 kit on your car and run it as is with no problems. Plenty of people have done this.

We all have the mod bug though, so we will mod. Here is a list of the top desired supporting mods in order (according to us).

-Air/oil separator catch can. The Coyote already tends to suck oil through the PCV system into the intake manifold. It will do it more with a blower. It’s a good idea to run a air/oil separator on any blown application.

-Urethane engine mounts. We like Prothane.

-Clutch. If you’re going to drive hard and have big fat sticky tires you’re going to want to think about a clutch.

-Rear lower and upper control arms. You will have a lot more torque with a positive displacement blower, which means you will spin the tires more. S197’s already have a little wheel hop now and then. You will have more with the blower. Control arms help out a lot with this.

-Big fat rear tires.

Of course there are about a million and one things that would be nice to do. But these are the top of the list.

Any tuner that can tune a Coyote Mustang can tune a GT550 kit. Most tuners will find that the GT550 kits are easier to tune than some others because it uses stock Ford parts for all of the tuning related items (injectors, mass air sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc)

You can get your car tuned at your local dyno facility or you can have it remote tuned. The simple explanation of remote tuning is that you do driving tests for the tuner. You then email them your logs (the data your tuning device sees), they make changes, then email you back an updated tune. You repeat this process a few times until your car is tuned properly. Remote tuning works very well and 9 times out of 10 it is what we do ourselves. A great tuner for this is John Lund with Lund racing.

To be perfectly honest the number one reason is it’s a PITA and tuning is not what we do. If we wanted to offer tunes there would be a infrastructure put in place to support that and we simply aren’t big enough to add a “department” for tuning.

Additionally, we are not fans of supplied or “canned” tunes for blown cars. Even if we purchased a blower kit from another company we wouldn’t run the supplied tune. Supplied tunes are very, very safe. And that means they are down on power and run very soft. Supplied tunes need to be that way because every car is a little different. If they were to supply a dialed in tune it’s possible that someone will put it in a car with some other mods other than the blower and it will not be safe anymore. Canned tunes are pig rich and don’t have much timing. They run like crap.

You really, really want a custom tune for your car. The number one reason is so you can be 100% sure you are tuned safe. The number two reason is you want your car to make all the power it can make and run well. Tuning is incredibly easy in this day and age. There are dyno shops on every corner and if you don’t want to do that there are a couple of tuners that do remote tuning which is a great option.

The short answer is no. It’s not because they couldn’t be made to be 50 state legal. It’s just that we don’t deal in large enough volume to be able to afford to get the kits certified. But…….

This is all in theory of course, we would never condone doing something illegal…….We aren’t in a state with emission testing so all of this is what we have head or been told. We don’t have any first-hand knowledge.

There are a lot of people running our kits in states with emission testing. What state you live in would determine how easy it is to get your car to pass the emission test. If your state simply tests the emissions at the tailpipe they are pretty easy to pass. Most good tuners can write you a tune to get past the sniff test. If your state has a visual inspection, it will be tougher. The good news is that the GT550-S197 uses stock Ford parts so when you pop the hood your average person is going to think it’s stock even though they are looking at a supercharger.

You best bet when dealing with emission compliance is to get in touch with your local hot rod community and see what they’re doing. People get past emission every day in every state with aftermarket parts. The trick is figuring out what you need to do.

Yes. The only difference between a manual and auto trans supercharger kit is the tune. Your tuner will be the one who “makes it for an auto”.

Some shops won’t want to install your GT550-S197 kit. Not all, but some.

Your shop doesn’t want to install your GT550-S197 kit because of one simple reason, money. We are not saying that they’re wrong for basing it on money. Making money is what they’re supposed to be doing after all.

When your shop puts a blower on your car they are usually selling you that blower, which they make money on. They make money because they are set up with one or a few blower manufacturers (or distributors) and they get their kits at a lower price than you do. We have already priced our kits as low as they can go and that is the price we give our customers. We didn’t pad the price so we can afford to sell the kits to shops for less than we do our customers.

Most shops bill by the hour ($100/hr for example). And they pay their employees by the billed hour. If the shop charges you 12hrs to put a blower on and it takes them 14hrs they “lost money”. And the employee isn’t going to be too happy because they just got paid for 12hrs but it took them 14. If a shop sticks with one or two different blower kits and only installs those they can get really fast at them and make more money. They will still charge for 12hrs, but if they can do the job in 8hrs because they have done so many of them they are very happy. There is nothing wrong with this at all, it’s smart. But if they’re only installing a certain kit and doing it faster than 12hrs every time they are going to be less thrilled about tackling a different kit and maybe seeing their work time balloon to 12hrs+. It’s not that your shop doesn’t want to install a GT550-S197 kit. They just don’t want to install a different kit then they’re used to.

Your shop makes money when they sell you the blower and they can make more money per hour if they get fast at a certain kit(s). That is why some shops won’t want to put your GT550-S197 kit on. There is nothing at all wrong with this. They should be doing everything they can to maximize profit and stay in business.

Yes you can. But it depends on what shape the motor is in. And that mostly boils down to cylinder sealing. If you’re at all concerned about running a blower on a high mileage do a compression test. And if you’re really worried do a leakdown test. If the numbers are good you can put a blower on.

If you purchase your supercharger (the actual head unit) from us in a Phase II.5 or III kit it will come with the GT550-S197 quick change pulley and hub already on it. If you purchase your own supercharger you can do one of two things:

-Remove your supercharger snout and send it to us to be swapped. The supercharger snout is very easy to remove/install. The only “hard” part is you want to catch the 6oz of fluid that comes out so you can re-use it. We will swap the GT550-S197 components on to your snout and ship it back with your manifold kit free of charge.

-You can swap the pulleys out yourself but it’s not the easiest thing in the world. You will first need a pulley removal tool. They are about $150-160. That will be used to remove the stock GT500 pulley. Then our hub needs to be heated up to 350deg F and then “dropped” on the shaft with a “stop” attached to the face of it so the alignment is correct. We can walk you through this if you want to go this direction. For most people sending it in is the best option.

The 2005-2010 Mustang GT 3v motor had a very clear limit. After 450+rwhp/6,000+rpm it would break rods. Pretty simple. The Coyote is not quite so easy.

The hard parts (rods, pistons, crank, etc) are actually quite robust in the Coyote. Conventional wisdom is that they are good for about 700rwhp. Some have pushed it further and not had problems. Some have pushed it further and scattered motors. But that’s not the first limit you run into.

The Coyote has a much higher compression ratio than the older 3v motor. And what that means is you’re limited by how much boost you can run on pump gas (91-93 octane). If you run too much boost you get detonation that breaks pistons/rods and sometimes blocks. What is the octane/horsepower limit of the Coyote you ask? The simple answer is 10-11psi. Which is 550ish rwhp on a stone stock motor. But that horsepower number can change quite a bit depending on what other supporting mods are in play. If you would like to know more about how that works read our Coyote Boosting Basics article.

Long story short your octane limit will be from 550-650rwhp depending on the other supporting mods you have.

It will take your average home mechanic 14-16hrs to install. Basically a weekend.  If you’ve done blower kits before or are a little more advanced it takes about 8-10hrs. If you’re a “Pro” expect it to take you 7-8hrs.

Out there in internet land the stock 07-12 blowers (2.0L Eaton M122’s) are commonly referred to as “Heat-ons” because highly modded GT500’s that are still running M122’s have high intake air temperature (IAT) problems. The high IAT problem in this situation is because of many factors. Yes, the M122 is not as efficient at compressing air as let’s say a Twin Screw blower (a Whipple for example). But the M122 is not a horrible blower by any means. When the GT500 crowd goes looking for more power out of their stock M122 they start by speeding it up…….a lot. On a stock GT500 the M122 spins at 15,625rpm which is right in its “sweet spot” and it doesn’t make a ton of heat. When the GT500 guys go for big power out of the M122 they first bump it up using a smaller upper pulley to 18,750rpm, which is not in its sweet spot anymore. And it really starts to make some heat. The next step is to add a 10% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 19,875rpm. Now they’re making a lot of heat. The next step after that is to run a 15% overdrive lower pulley which spins the blower at 20,325rpm. Which makes a TON of heat. And all of those blower speeds are based on them not spinning the motor past 6,250rpm. If they raise the motors rev limit (most do) the blower spins even faster. There are guys out there spinning their stock M122 at 23,000rpm!!!! Some of these guys are spinning their M122’s 50% over their “sweet spot”. It’s no surprise that they don’t perform very well and produce a lot of heat. Complaining about a blower spinning nearly 50% faster than its sweet spot and making a ton of heat is like spinning your motor to 9,000rpm and complaining when parts come flying out of it.

A GT550-S197 kit making 550rwhp spins the M122 at 15,826rpm. That is right in the M122’s sweet spot and spinning at almost the exact same speed as stock GT500’s. That makes for a very “happy” blower with low IAT’s and very little parasitic loss.

The M122 is not a “junk” blower. There are no junk blowers out there (that we know of). The problem people run into is they try and use the wrong blower for their goals. Different blower designs, sizes, etc do different things better than others. But it mostly comes down to size (displacement). If you try and get more power out of a blower than it was designed for it will give you problems, it really is that simple. The M122 is VERY “happy” making 550rwhp on a Coyote. And it remains happy all the way up to about 610rwhp. You could spend more money and run a 2.3L TVS, 2.3L Whipple, 2.3L Edelbrock, 2.8L Kenne Bell, etc. and at 550rwhp (the effective octane limit of the Coyote, more on that here) won’t see any measurable performance advantage over the M122. So who wins? The guy who spent less money and went with the M122? Or the guy who went with the other ones? We say the guy making the same 550rwhp with no sacrifices for less money…..wins.

There is a horsepower level where the M122 won’t be big enough and getting into something else is the smart move. But 95% of people never go for that kind of power. And for those that do at some point can put anything from a 2.3L TVS to a 4.5L Whipple right on the GT550-S197 manifold. No need to get a completely different kit.

This is a tricky question and quoting power numbers these days is very difficult because the industry and the public as a whole use “fuzzy math” when making claims. What does “How much power will it make?” really mean? Are we talking about a stone stock motor with stone stock exhaust? Are we talking about a built motor with ported heads, big cams, high compression pistons, monster exhaust and a huge throttle body and cold air intake? Are we talking about a ported blower? Or somewhere in between? Are we talking about 91 octane gas or 93? Are we talking about e85? As we’re sure you can tell there is going to be a huge difference in “what it makes” between stock and wild. And if you’re adding e85 to the mix it blows the whole estimate right out of the water.

Because the Coyote is octane limited due to a high compression ratio (you can read more about that here) all the blowers available for the Coyote are going to make almost the exact same power. A stone stock Coyote motor with stock exhaust is going to be limited to right around 550rwhp no matter what blower you plop on top of it. You can do some supporting mods to increase that number (exhaust, better fuel, cams, etc) but a stock Coyote with an out of the box blower kit is going to be limited to about 550rwhp.

But……

If you run e85, headers, off road midpipe and a good cat back you can get quite a bit more power out of the available blowers. Keep in mind that an e85 fuel system and injectors to support the numbers below gets very expensive, very fast. Spending $2500-5000 on a fuel system is not at all hard to do. And the exhaust components will add up to $2000-2500 real quick. And a lot of the below numbers are over the limit where you start to break rods/pistons/blocks. So to achieve those levels you’re also looking at a forged motor too.

These numbers represent what these blowers can make with good fuel, good supporting mods and a forged motor on the same dyno on the same day. Keep in mind a lot of these numbers below will require more than a forged shortblock. A sleeved or filled (can’t drive a filled one on the street) block will be needed after about 850rwhp. The factory blocks start to crack at that point. So for most people with real world budgets these numbers are strictly fantasy.

-The stock 2007-2012 GT500 2.0L M122 blower on a GT550 kit will make about 630-640rwhp.

-The stock 2013-2014 GT500 2.3L TVS blower on a GT550 kit will make about 800-825rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.9L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 875-900rwhp.

-The Whipple 3.4L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1150-1200rwhp.

-The Whipple 4.0L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1275-1325rwhp.

-The Whipple 4.5L rear entry on a GT550 kit will make about 1400-1500rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.3L will make about 750-775rwhp.

-The Whipple 2.9L front entry will make about 900-950rwhp.

-The Roush 2.3L TVS will make about 750-775rwhp.

-The Edlebrock EForce 2.3L TVS will make about 625-645rwhp.

-The Kenne Bell 2.8L will make about 850-875rwhp.

“But some dude on the internet is making bla, bla, bla horsepower out of his XYZ blower on his Coyote. Those numbers aren’t right”!

The numbers listed above can go up or down based on conditions, fuel used, how safe they are tuned, how happy the dyno they were on is, other supporting modifications, etc. They are simply a representation of what you can expect out of the above blowers when they’re compared to each other under the same conditions.

You sure can. Positive displacement blowers don’t care much about what motor they are bolted to. Would a “blower” cam work better than a “naturally aspirated” cam? Yeah, just a touch. Nothing you could ever feel in the seat of you pants though. As far as things like ported heads, headers, exhaust, etc. they simply make the blowers job easier. So if you already have a bunch of bolt ons and you want to put a GT550-S197 kit on it’s no problem at all. If you do have headers, off road midpipe, cams, etc you can actually make more power than a non bolt on car because you will be able to spin the blower faster and still remain under the octane limits of the fuel you use. You can read about that here in our Coyote Boosting Basics article.

You can upgrade to a GT500 bolt pattern Eaton 2.3L TVS with the GT550 easy as pie. It will take about an hour. And for 99% of people that blower will make more power than they will ever be shooting for. But…………..

If you’re looking to go full gonzo you can use any of the big GT500 superchargers. Some will be an absolute direct bolt on. Some will require a different base/adapter plate, which we can supply you. But when running the big blowers you have to address the belt system. The stock 6 rib system won’t cut it. Even the big 10 rib systems leave a little on the table but there is what is used most of the time because it’s very difficult to get belts wider than 10 rib in the correct lengths.

Some big blowers are easier to make a 10 rib system work with than others. Whipple blowers will be the easiest. We can help you with what you will need to go 10 rib if you decide to go BIG.

The short answer is none. You can bolt a GT550-S197 kit on your car and run it as is with no problems. Plenty of people have done this.

We all have the mod bug though, so we will mod. Here is a list of the top desired supporting mods in order (according to us).

-Air/oil separator catch can. The Coyote already tends to suck oil through the PCV system into the intake manifold. It will do it more with a blower. It’s a good idea to run a air/oil separator on any blown application.

-Urethane engine mounts. We like Prothane.

-Clutch. If you’re going to drive hard and have big fat sticky tires you’re going to want to think about a clutch.

-Rear lower and upper control arms. You will have a lot more torque with a positive displacement blower, which means you will spin the tires more. S197’s already have a little wheel hop now and then. You will have more with the blower. Control arms help out a lot with this.

-Big fat rear tires.

Of course there are about a million and one things that would be nice to do. But these are the top of the list.

Any tuner that can tune a Coyote Mustang can tune a GT550 kit. Most tuners will find that the GT550 kits are easier to tune than some others because it uses stock Ford parts for all of the tuning related items (injectors, mass air sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc)

You can get your car tuned at your local dyno facility or you can have it remote tuned. The simple explanation of remote tuning is that you do driving tests for the tuner. You then email them your logs (the data your tuning device sees), they make changes, then email you back an updated tune. You repeat this process a few times until your car is tuned properly. Remote tuning works very well and 9 times out of 10 it is what we do ourselves. A great tuner for this is John Lund with Lund racing.

To be perfectly honest the number one reason is it’s a PITA and tuning is not what we do. If we wanted to offer tunes there would be a infrastructure put in place to support that and we simply aren’t big enough to add a “department” for tuning.

Additionally, we are not fans of supplied or “canned” tunes for blown cars. Even if we purchased a blower kit from another company we wouldn’t run the supplied tune. Supplied tunes are very, very safe. And that means they are down on power and run very soft. Supplied tunes need to be that way because every car is a little different. If they were to supply a dialed in tune it’s possible that someone will put it in a car with some other mods other than the blower and it will not be safe anymore. Canned tunes are pig rich and don’t have much timing. They run like crap.

You really, really want a custom tune for your car. The number one reason is so you can be 100% sure you are tuned safe. The number two reason is you want your car to make all the power it can make and run well. Tuning is incredibly easy in this day and age. There are dyno shops on every corner and if you don’t want to do that there are a couple of tuners that do remote tuning which is a great option.

The short answer is no. It’s not because they couldn’t be made to be 50 state legal. It’s just that we don’t deal in large enough volume to be able to afford to get the kits certified. But…….

This is all in theory of course, we would never condone doing something illegal…….We aren’t in a state with emission testing so all of this is what we have head or been told. We don’t have any first-hand knowledge.

There are a lot of people running our kits in states with emission testing. What state you live in would determine how easy it is to get your car to pass the emission test. If your state simply tests the emissions at the tailpipe they are pretty easy to pass. Most good tuners can write you a tune to get past the sniff test. If your state has a visual inspection, it will be tougher. The good news is that the GT550-S197 uses stock Ford parts so when you pop the hood your average person is going to think it’s stock even though they are looking at a supercharger.

You best bet when dealing with emission compliance is to get in touch with your local hot rod community and see what they’re doing. People get past emission every day in every state with aftermarket parts. The trick is figuring out what you need to do.

Yes. The only difference between a manual and auto trans supercharger kit is the tune. Your tuner will be the one who “makes it for an auto”.

Some shops won’t want to install your GT550-S197 kit. Not all, but some.

Your shop doesn’t want to install your GT550-S197 kit because of one simple reason, money. We are not saying that they’re wrong for basing it on money. Making money is what they’re supposed to be doing after all.

When your shop puts a blower on your car they are usually selling you that blower, which they make money on. They make money because they are set up with one or a few blower manufacturers (or distributors) and they get their kits at a lower price than you do. We have already priced our kits as low as they can go and that is the price we give our customers. We didn’t pad the price so we can afford to sell the kits to shops for less than we do our customers.

Most shops bill by the hour ($100/hr for example). And they pay their employees by the billed hour. If the shop charges you 12hrs to put a blower on and it takes them 14hrs they “lost money”. And the employee isn’t going to be too happy because they just got paid for 12hrs but it took them 14. If a shop sticks with one or two different blower kits and only installs those they can get really fast at them and make more money. They will still charge for 12hrs, but if they can do the job in 8hrs because they have done so many of them they are very happy. There is nothing wrong with this at all, it’s smart. But if they’re only installing a certain kit and doing it faster than 12hrs every time they are going to be less thrilled about tackling a different kit and maybe seeing their work time balloon to 12hrs+. It’s not that your shop doesn’t want to install a GT550-S197 kit. They just don’t want to install a different kit then they’re used to.

Your shop makes money when they sell you the blower and they can make more money per hour if they get fast at a certain kit(s). That is why some shops won’t want to put your GT550-S197 kit on. There is nothing at all wrong with this. They should be doing everything they can to maximize profit and stay in business.

Yes you can. But it depends on what shape the motor is in. And that mostly boils down to cylinder sealing. If you’re at all concerned about running a blower on a high mileage do a compression test. And if you’re really worried do a leakdown test. If the numbers are good you can put a blower on.

If you purchase your supercharger (the actual head unit) from us in a Phase II.5 or III kit it will come with the GT550-S197 quick change pulley and hub already on it. If you purchase your own supercharger you can do one of two things:

-Remove your supercharger snout and send it to us to be swapped. The supercharger snout is very easy to remove/install. The only “hard” part is you want to catch the 6oz of fluid that comes out so you can re-use it. We will swap the GT550-S197 components on to your snout and ship it back with your manifold kit free of charge.

-You can swap the pulleys out yourself but it’s not the easiest thing in the world. You will first need a pulley removal tool. They are about $150-160. That will be used to remove the stock GT500 pulley. Then our hub needs to be heated up to 350deg F and then “dropped” on the shaft with a “stop” attached to the face of it so the alignment is correct. We can walk you through this if you want to go this direction. For most people sending it in is the best option.