Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Super Single 6.5gpm 735 cu in Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-2007-2012 GT500 Bosch Intercooler Water Pump

-Department Of Boost Super Single heat exchanger

-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-6.5gpm of water flow

-735 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)

-Single pass heat exchanger core

-.75” hoses

Upgrading to this option is $100. That is a really small cost to get yourself into the second largest heat exchanger available (we also make the largest at 1000cu in). For reference the third largest heat exchanger is 30% smaller than this one, and costs $1000.

This kit is a very low cost option that will provide you with a good base for later expansion (see tech info below). This is just a heat exchanger upgrade over the base kit. The heat exchanger can run 1” lines. In the future if you decide that you need more cooling, you’re only a pump and/or lines away from some pretty big flow numbers. Or you can do it now with one of our other upgrade kits.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech/fans_heat_exchanger.htm

Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Super Single 10.5gpm 735 cu in Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-2013 GT500 intercooler water pump
-Department Of Boost Super Single heat exchanger
-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems
-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-10.5gpm of water flow
-735 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)
-Single pass heat exchanger core
-.75” hoses

Upgrading to this option is $350. That is a really small cost to get yourself into the second largest heat exchanger available (we also make the largest at 1000cu in) and 10.5gpm of water flow. For reference the third largest heat exchanger is 30% smaller than this one, and costs $1000.
This kit is a very low cost option to get you to “Pretty Darn Good” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info). The entire kit costs less than any decent heat exchanger costs all by itself. The heat exchanger can run 1” lines. In the future if you decide that you need more cooling, you’re only a pump and lines away from some pretty big flow numbers. Or you can do it now with one of our other upgrade kits.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech/fans_heat_exchanger.htm

Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Super Single 14gpm 735 cu in Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-Davies Craig EWP150 Water Pump
-Department Of Boost Super Single heat exchanger
-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems
-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-14gpm of water flow
-735 cu in of heat exchanger core volume
-Single pass heat exchanger core
-1.00” hoses

Upgrading to this option is $600. That is a really small cost to get yourself into the second largest heat exchanger available (we also make the largest at 1000cu in) and 14gpm of water flow. For reference the third largest heat exchanger is 30% smaller than this one, and costs $1000.

This kit is a very low cost option to get you to “bulletproof” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info). The entire kit costs about the same as decent heat exchanger costs all by itself.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech/fans_heat_exchanger.htm

Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Titanic Triple 1000cu in 10.5gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-2013 GT500 intercooler water pump
-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger
-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems
-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-10.5gpm of water flow
-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1.25” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)
-Triple pass heat exchanger core
-.75” hoses

*****Fitment Warning*****

-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.

-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.

-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.

-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.

-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.

Upgrading to this option is $1000. The Titanic Triple is the biggest, baddest, most flexible heat exchanger you can get….period. If you have plans on going big time in the future but you don’t want to plunk down a chunk of money on a lot of intercooler system you don’t need yet this is a great option for you.

This kit is a fantastic option to get you to “Pretty darn good” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info) and leaves you a massive amount of room to grow in the future.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

https://www.departmentofboost.com/knowledge-base/general-tech/

Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Titanic Triple 1000cu in 14gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

– Davies Craig EWP150 Water Pump

-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger

-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems

-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-14gpm of water flow

-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1.25” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)

-Triple pass heat exchanger core

-1.00” hoses

*****Fitment Warning*****

-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.

-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.

-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.

-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.

-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.

Upgrading to this option is $1250. The Titanic Triple is the biggest, baddest, most flexible heat exchanger you can get….period. If you have plans on going big time in the future but you don’t want to plunk down a chunk of money on a lot of intercooler system you don’t need yet this is a great option for you.

This kit is a fantastic option to get you to “Pretty darn good” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info) and leaves you a massive amount of room to grow in the future.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

https://www.departmentofboost.com/knowledge-base/general-tech/

Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.

Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.

Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.

With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Titanic Triple 1000cu in 22gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-Department Of Boost POWA Pump

-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger

-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems

-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-12gpm of water flow

-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1.25” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)

-Triple pass heat exchanger core

-1.00” hoses

*****Fitment Warning*****

-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.

-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.

-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.

-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.

-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.

*****Power Draw Warning*****

The water pump draws 26 amps. Which is quite a bit. For perspective most pump have a 3-5 amp draw. You stock alternator only puts out 135 amps. You are going to want one of our “Bulletproof” Denso alternators is you want to run this pump. It’s also a really good idea to gauge up all of your batter, alternator and ground wires/straps. This is big boy level stuff here.

Upgrading to this option is $1700. The Titanic Triple is the biggest, baddest, most flexible heat exchanger you can get….period. And this is enough water flow to handle the amount of boost that 95% of cars will ever have.

This kit is a fantastic option to get you to “Pretty darn good” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info) and leaves you a massive amount of room to grow in the future.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

https://www.departmentofboost.com/knowledge-base/general-tech/

Your car has a 195deg thermostat. That means your motor runs at 195deg minimum. The problem with this is that the motor (most specifically the cylinder heads) are running at 195+deg too. The intake manifold which houses the intercooler is made of aluminum. It is bolted to the cylinder heads. It transfers heat lightning fast. You want the temperature of the intake manifold as low as you can possibly get it to control intake air temperatures. Which directly effects power production in a big way. If you can reduce the temperature of the cylinder heads, you reduce the temperature of the intake manifold and that in turn allows the intercooler to use more of its energy to cooling the air coming out of the blower (which is its job). And less of its energy cooling the body of the intake manifold (which is not its job). A secondary benefit of lower engine temps is you have a larger threshold for detonation (knock). Which is important for forced induction motors. You can have all of these upsides for just $25. Quite the bargain from the performance/$$$ perspective.