The intercooler system components we spec’d out for this system are good. Really good. Nothing else in the industry can touch it. But, there is always better.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Titanic Triple 1000cu in 22gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-Department Of Boost POWA Pump

-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger

-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems

-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-22gpm of water flow

-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume and the ability to run up to a 1.25” hose (other heat exchangers are limited to .75” hose)

-Triple pass heat exchanger core

-1.00” hoses

The Titanic Triple is the biggest, baddest, most flexible heat exchanger you can get….period. And this is enough water flow to handle the amount of boost that 95% of cars will ever have.

This kit is a fantastic option to get you to “Pretty darn good” with 10-11psi of boost (what that means is below in the tech info) and leaves you a massive amount of room to grow in the future.

*****Fitment Warning*****

-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.

-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.

-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.

-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.

-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.

*****Power Draw Warning*****

The water pump draws 26 amps. Which is quite a bit. For perspective most pump have a 3-5 amp draw. You stock alternator only puts out 135 amps. You are going to want one of our “Bulletproof” Denso alternators is you want to run this pump. It’s also a really good idea to gauge up all of your batter, alternator and ground wires/straps. This is big boy level stuff here.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

https://www.departmentofboost.com/knowledge-base/general-tech/

Are you looking for the ultimate in intercooler system performance? Well, you found it. It literally doesn’t get any better than this. This is the same system we run on our high HP roadrace cars. And if you can keep a roadrace car cool, you can keep anything cool.

<Scroll past kit info to read tech info>

Titanic Triple 1000cu in 22gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit

Kit includes:

-Department Of Boost POWA Pump

-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger

-Billet Partial bypass block  for higher water speed systems

-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.

Specifications:

-30gpm of water flow

-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume

-Triple pass heat exchanger core

-1.25” braided nylon hose with aluminum AN fittings

*****Fitment Warning*****

-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.

-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.

-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.

-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.

-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.

*****Power Draw Warning*****

The water pump draws 26 amps. Which is quite a bit. For perspective most pump have a 3-5 amp draw. You stock alternator only puts out 135 amps. You are going to want one of our “Bulletproof” Denso alternators is you want to run this pump. It’s also a really good idea to gauge up all of your batter, alternator and ground wires/straps. This is big boy level stuff here.

Intercooler System Requirement Tech

Intercooler systems are incredibly complex. There are a lot of variables. Change one, and everything else in the system changes. We’re going to try and keep this short so this is distilled down to something as simple as we can get it.

We have three designations for intercooler system performance:

-Bulletproof – Bulletproof is best compared to how your cars engine cooling system performs. You never think about over-heating, right? That’s because modern cars don’t over-heat. Of course, if you want to do something extreme like hold the throttle wide open while you’re only moving at 2mph (you would need to be in the mud with a truck to do this) it would over-heat. Or, if you’re a really fast driver and it’s really hot out you can get a stock car to over-heat on the road course over a 20min period. These are pretty rare occurrences. And if you’re doing that sort of thing, you probably already know that you need to address cooling. But all in all, modern cars don’t over heat. That is how we define bulletproof.

-Pretty Darn Good – This one is a bit harder to define. Most of the time you will have no temp issues. But if you let’s say want to do three back to back to back 12sec wide open throttle runs you may get a little hot and drop a few HP toward the end. Or if it’s absolutely blazing hot out you may be limited to one 12sec wide open throttle run before you need to give it a short break to recover. And if it’s blazing hot out, you have been sitting in stop and go traffic or just driving at a slow pace stopping at a lot of lights on surface streets you may drop a few HP at the end of a single 12sec run. Pretty darn good is pretty darn good and way, way better than what 98% of blown cars have going for them.

-Crap – Crap is just what it sounds like, it’s crap. Most of the time a crap system will not even give you 6sec of wide open throttle before it’s murdering power. Then it needs a long time to cool down before you can do it again. If it’s hot out it will never cool down as long as you’re still driving the car. To cool them down you have to turn the car off and let it sit for hours. Back before we were Department Of Boost we had a car like this (most blown cars are like this). It was very disappointing. It was the catalyst for the creation of Department Of Boost.

On average what you get with blower kits is a pump that will move 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) of water and a heat exchanger with 150-250cu in of heat exchanger core volume (these numbers will mean something in a minute). The GT450-450HP has 6.5gpm of water flow and 264cu in of heat exchanger core volume standard.

After years of collecting data we have been able to put together a chart of system requirements for different boost levels and situations. The chart below assumes that a composite heat barrier is in use. See the “modifiers” section at the bottom for info on the absence of a composite heat barrier and other things. This chart is not a “rule”. It would be impossible to make something that focused with all the variables that are in play. But, it’s 95% of the way to “rule”. And considering no one else has done the amount of testing we have and then put it in chart form, this is as good as it gets as far as data goes.

As you’re looking at the chart below keep this fun fact in mind. Even if you throw the best intercooler system components ($2500+) at the other blower kits manifolds/intercoolers the highest water speed you will see is 12.75gpm. Additionally, there are no composite barriers available other than the GT450’s.

Everything under “Pretty Darn Good” is “Crap”. We didn’t bother putting that in the chart.

In summary you really want to take a look at upgrading a few components now so you don’t buy them twice (once when you get the kit, and again when you upgrade). If you upgrade now the value of the standard kit parts is subtracted (credited – pricing already reflect that) toward the bigger stuff.

If your future plans include more boost keep that in mind when spec’ing out your intercooler system.

Heat Exchanger Fans:

We don’t offer heat exchanger fans. Not because we can’t, but because we won’t. They’re a gimmick. Here is an article explaining why:

https://www.departmentofboost.com/knowledge-base/general-tech/