Department Of Boost Titanic Triple 1000cu in 30gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Package
(in the Continental U.S.)
Why don’t we supply “good” intercooler system components with our base kits? Well, because no one else does. The only way we can be on the same “pricing playing field” with other companies is to spec our base kits the same way they do.
Arguably the most important supporting modification you want to consider is to upgrade the intercooler system (not the intercooler itself, that is locked in the manifold, we’re talking about the supporting components). When you compress air (boost) it creates heat. On average about 12-13deg per 1psi of boost. Too much heat causes engine detonation/knock. To keep the engine safe the cars computer (ECU) subtracts ignition timing when the temperature reaches 136deg. The further it goes over 136deg the more ignition timing is subtracted. This reduction in ignition timing has a very large impact on how much power you’re making. It doesn’t take much to knock you down 75-100hp. And that’s no fun. You paid a lot of money for that power.
Not one single blower kit comes with intercooler system components that are capable of keeping your inlet air temps (IAT’s) down to a safe/full power level. In fact, most of them can’t even be modified to a point where temps are safe/you have full power all the time no matter what you throw at them. It’s the blower industries dirty little secret.
With the correct supporting components our intake manifolds/intercoolers can support massive amounts of boost. The intake manifolds/intercoolers you get with other kits still can’t correctly support 10psi of boost even if you throw every top shelf/big dollar intercooler system component available at them.
Titanic Triple 1000cu in 30gpm Intercooler System Upgrade Kit
-Department Of Boost GT550 Intake Manifold/Intercooler
-Department Of Boost POWA Pump
-Department Of Boost Titanic Triple heat exchanger
-Partial bypass mod plumbing for higher water speed systems
-All lines, clamps, fittings, etc.
-30gpm of water flow
-1000 cu in of heat exchanger core volume
-Triple pass heat exchanger core
Some Assembly Required:
-This kit is not going to jump out f the box and put itself on the car. You will be cutting hose to length, clamping sections together, drilling a hole(s) for a pump mount, etc. None of this is hard. We just want to make sure that you know there will be some hot rodding.
-This heat exchangers is MASSIVE. A byproduct of massive is that you may need to do some “Hot Rodding” when putting it on your car.
-The biggest “fitment issue” is that if you have the factory fog lights in the upper grill, they will not clear the heat exchanger. The practical perspective is that if you’re at all serious about cooling (which is assumed if you’re getting this heat exchanger) you don’t want those fog lights there anyway. You need the airflow they restrict. You can run your grill with no fogs (race car approach) or get one of the billion grills with no fogs available.
-Depending on what bumper cover you have there may be some slight trimming to do on the back side.
-If your horns are mounted up by your hood latch, they will need to be re-located to the driver’s side frame rail. Which is easy.
-We cannot stress enough how extreme this heat exchanger is. And because it is, you need to take more measures than you would with something that isn’t. If you’re not prepared to do a little Hot Rodding we suggest you look at our Super Single heat exchanger.
*****Power Draw Warning*****
The water pump draws 26 amps. Which is quite a bit. For perspective most pump have a 3-5 amp draw. You stock alternator only puts out 135 amps. You are going to want one of our “Bulletproof” Denso alternators is you want to run this pump. It’s also a really good idea to gauge up all of your batter, alternator and ground wires/straps. This is big boy level stuff here.